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Preface
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iii
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About the Author
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v
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|
Introduction
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vi
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|
Table of Contents
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vii
|
|
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Part A, Last Designing
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1
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Tools and Aids
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1
|
Shoemakers' Designing Square
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1
|
Marked Wheel
| |
1
|
Measuring Tape(metric)
| |
1
|
Shoe Side Tape
| |
1
|
Measurements and Information Needed for the Designing Process
| |
1
|
Marking the Foot Outline
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2
|
Taking the Foot Measurements
| |
2
|
Shoe and Last Sizes
| |
3
|
Metric System
| |
3
|
Paris Point System
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3
|
English Measuring System
| |
3
|
Foot Length and Last Length
| |
5
|
Width of Volume of the Last
| |
5
|
Measurements for Insole Designing
| |
5
|
Formulas for Calculating Measurements for Last Making
| |
5
|
Men's Lasts
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6
|
Ladies' Lasts
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6
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Designing the Insole for a Last
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6
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Designing the Insole for a Man's Last using a Foot Outline
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6
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Designing the Insole for a Lady's Last using a Foot Outline
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10
|
Designing the Insole for a Child's Last using a Foot Outline
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11
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Designing the Insole for a Man's Geometrically Without Foot Outline
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12
|
Last Profile
| |
14
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Designing the Profile for a Man's Last using the First Method
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15
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Constructing the Back Section of the Last
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16
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Constructing the Front Part of the last Profile
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16
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Designing the Back View of a Man's Last
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17
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Designing the Profile for a Man's Last using the Second Method
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17
|
|
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|
Part B, Making of the Last
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21
|
Materials Used in Last Making
| |
21
|
Tools Used in Last Making
| |
21
|
Making A Laminated Block
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21
|
Using a Laminated Block
| |
21
|
Using a Solid Block
| |
22
|
Shaping an Insole
| |
22
|
Marking the Highline
| |
23
|
Inside Highline
| |
23
|
Outside Highline
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23
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Marking the Top Section of the Block
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23
|
Removing Excess Wood
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24
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Contour or Profile Gauge
| |
24
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How to use the Contour Gauge
| |
25
|
Finishing Stage
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26
|
Checking the Measurements
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26
|
Short Heel Measurement
| |
26
|
Long Heel Measurement
| |
26
|
Instep Measurement
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26
|
Waist Measurement
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27
|
Joint Measurement
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27
|
Toe Height
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27
|
Toe Spring
| |
27
|
Finishing
| |
27
|
Breaking the Last
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27
|
Making the Back Section of the Last Removable
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27
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Cutting Out the Front Cone Profile Block
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27
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Hook
| |
28
|
Leather Hinged Last
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29
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Last Maker's Block and Knife
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30
|
|
| |
|
Part C, Tables
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31
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Table 1 Comparing Show Sizes
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31
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Table 2 Last Back Heights
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32
|
Table 3 Joint Measurements, Paris Point System
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33
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Table 4 Joint Measurements, Metric System
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34
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Table 5 Joint Measurements, English Inch System
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35
|
|
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|
Part D, Designing and Making Wooden Heel Blocks
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36
|
Designing
| |
36
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Cutting the Shape of the Heel
| |
37
|
Making a Sanding and Polishing Wheel
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38
|
Electric Motor
| |
38
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Suitable Wood for the Wheel
| |
38
|
Making the Wheel
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39
|
Finishing the Wheel
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40
|
Sanding Wheel
| |
40
|
Suitable Sandpaper
| |
40
|
Fixing the Sandpaper
| |
40
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Polishing and Buffing Wheel
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40
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|
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|
Glossary of Terms
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42
|
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