Preface
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iii
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About the Author
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v
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Introduction
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vi
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Table of Contents
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vii
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Part A, Last Designing
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1
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Tools and Aids
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1
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Shoemakers' Designing Square
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1
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Marked Wheel
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1
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Measuring Tape(metric)
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1
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Shoe Side Tape
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1
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Measurements and Information Needed for the Designing Process
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1
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Marking the Foot Outline
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2
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Taking the Foot Measurements
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2
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Shoe and Last Sizes
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3
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Metric System
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3
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Paris Point System
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3
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English Measuring System
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3
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Foot Length and Last Length
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5
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Width of Volume of the Last
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5
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Measurements for Insole Designing
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5
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Formulas for Calculating Measurements for Last Making
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5
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Men's Lasts
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6
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Ladies' Lasts
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6
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Designing the Insole for a Last
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6
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Designing the Insole for a Man's Last using a Foot Outline
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6
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Designing the Insole for a Lady's Last using a Foot Outline
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10
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Designing the Insole for a Child's Last using a Foot Outline
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11
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Designing the Insole for a Man's Geometrically Without Foot Outline
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12
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Last Profile
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14
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Designing the Profile for a Man's Last using the First Method
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15
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Constructing the Back Section of the Last
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16
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Constructing the Front Part of the last Profile
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16
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Designing the Back View of a Man's Last
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17
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Designing the Profile for a Man's Last using the Second Method
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17
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Part B, Making of the Last
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21
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Materials Used in Last Making
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21
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Tools Used in Last Making
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21
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Making A Laminated Block
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21
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Using a Laminated Block
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21
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Using a Solid Block
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22
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Shaping an Insole
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22
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Marking the Highline
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23
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Inside Highline
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23
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Outside Highline
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23
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Marking the Top Section of the Block
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23
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Removing Excess Wood
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24
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Contour or Profile Gauge
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24
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How to use the Contour Gauge
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25
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Finishing Stage
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26
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Checking the Measurements
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26
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Short Heel Measurement
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26
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Long Heel Measurement
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26
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Instep Measurement
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26
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Waist Measurement
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27
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Joint Measurement
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27
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Toe Height
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27
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Toe Spring
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27
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Finishing
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27
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Breaking the Last
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27
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Making the Back Section of the Last Removable
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27
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Cutting Out the Front Cone Profile Block
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27
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Hook
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28
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Leather Hinged Last
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29
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Last Maker's Block and Knife
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30
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Part C, Tables
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31
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Table 1 Comparing Show Sizes
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31
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Table 2 Last Back Heights
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32
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Table 3 Joint Measurements, Paris Point System
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33
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Table 4 Joint Measurements, Metric System
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34
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Table 5 Joint Measurements, English Inch System
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35
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Part D, Designing and Making Wooden Heel Blocks
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36
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Designing
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36
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Cutting the Shape of the Heel
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37
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Making a Sanding and Polishing Wheel
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38
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Electric Motor
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38
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Suitable Wood for the Wheel
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38
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Making the Wheel
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39
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Finishing the Wheel
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40
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Sanding Wheel
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40
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Suitable Sandpaper
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40
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Fixing the Sandpaper
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40
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Polishing and Buffing Wheel
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40
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Glossary of Terms
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42
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