Introduction
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4
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Text
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10
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Taking Measurements
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12
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The Draft
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14
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The Length and Width of the Foot
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15
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The Foot Imprint
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16
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The Foot from Different Angles
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17
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The Bone Structure of the Foot
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18
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The Musculature of the Foot
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20
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Phases of Walking
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22
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The Arches
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24
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Common Malformations
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25
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Shoe Sizes
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26
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French Sizes
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26
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English Sizes
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26
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American Sizes (USA)
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27
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Metric Sizes
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27
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Girth Measurements
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27
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Width Numbering
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28
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Foot ID
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29
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Lasts
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30
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Why Do We Need Lasts?
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32
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"The Cobbler Should Stick to His Lasts"
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33
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The Symmetric Last and the Asymmetric Last
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34
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The Raw Material of the Last
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36
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Cutting It Up
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38
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Heat-Treating and Dying
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39
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The Lastmaker
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40
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Preparing the Custom-Made Last by Hand
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42
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Preshaping
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43
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Rough Copying
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44
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Fine Copying
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44
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Final Adjustments
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45
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Custom-Made Lasts
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46
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The Removal Method
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46
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The Addition Method
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46
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Corrected Custom-made Lasts
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47
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Characteristic Custom-made Lasts
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48
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Putting the Last to the Test
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49
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The After-life of the Last
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50
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Shoe Styles
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52
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"Shoes Makyth Man"
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54
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Footwear Fashion
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56
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Basic Types of Classic Men's Shoes
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58
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The Full-brogue and Semi-brogue
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59
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The Oxford
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60
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The Derby
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62
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The Monk
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66
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The Slipper
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68
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Summer Shoes
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70
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Boots
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72
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The Design
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74
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The Form
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76
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Typical Forms
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77
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A Choice of Colors
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78
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Combining Color and Leather
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80
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Golf Shoes
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82
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Contrasting Colors: Black and White
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84
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The Upper
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86
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Leather
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88
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Preparation for Tanning
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90
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Posttanning Procedures and Finishing
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93
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Clicking
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95
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Box Calf
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96
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Cowhide
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98
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Exotic Leathers
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99
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Lizard Skin
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100
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Crocodile Skin
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101
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Accessories for Shoe Uppers
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103
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Preparation for Assembling the Shoe Upper
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104
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Gimping
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105
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Brogueing
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106
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Decorations on the Toe Cap
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108
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Reinforcing the Upper
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111
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Stitching the Upper
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112
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The Lining
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114
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Finishing the Upper
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115
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The Shoe
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116
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The Shoemaker's Workshop
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118
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The Shoemaker's Guild
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120
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Industrialization and its Consequences
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122
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Construction of the Shoe
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124
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The ABCs of the Shoe
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126
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The Welted Shoe
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129
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The Double-Stitched Shoe
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129
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Pit Tanning
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130
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Wonders of Nature
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131
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Leather for the Lower Parts
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132
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Cutting Out the Lower Parts
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133
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The Insole
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134
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The Feather
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135
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Preparing the Upper
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136
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The Counter
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137
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The Side Reinforcements
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138
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The Adhesive
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139
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Lasting
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140
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Hammering the Shoe
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141
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The Welted Shoe
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143
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Cobbler's Thread
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144
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The Seam
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145
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Stitching the Welt
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146
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Completing the Welt: the Rand
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148
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Soling the Shoe
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150
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The Outsole
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152
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Making Stitches on the Outsole
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153
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Double-stitching
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154
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Completing the Welt Stitching
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155
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The Double-stitched Shoe
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157
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The Welt Seam
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158
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Preparting for the Second Row of Stitching
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159
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The Midsole Seam
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160
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The Outsole Seam
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160
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The Heel
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162
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The Correct Measurement
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163
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The Second Rand
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164
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The Construction of the Heel
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165
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Measuring and Shaping the Heel
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166
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Rubber Heel Pieces
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167
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Finishing the Sole and Heel
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168
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Ornamentation
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170
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Removing the Last
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172
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Finishing the Inside of the Shoe
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173
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Insole Covers
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174
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Arch Supports
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174
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The Three-part Shoe Tree
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176
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The Sprung Shoe Tree
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177
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Finishing the Completed Shoe
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179
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Suitable Shoelaces
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181
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Packing
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181
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Caring for Shoes
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182
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Cleaning
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184
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The Ten Golden Rules of Shoe Care
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185
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The Art of Shoe Cleaning
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186
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Types of Shoe Trees
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188
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The Shoe Horn
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189
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"If the Shoe Pinches..."
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190
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Shoe Repairs
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191
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Repairs to the Toe Piece and the Heel
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192
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Replacing the Sole and Heel
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193
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Workshops
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194
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Shoes Fit for a King: Lobbs in London and Paris
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196
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London and Budapest Meet: Benjamin Klemann in Basthorst
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198
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Form Follows Function: Himer & Himer in Baden-Baden
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199
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A Budapest renaissance: Laszolo Vass
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200
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The Name is a Brand: Balint in Vienna
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201
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Style, Success, and Quality: Materna in Vienna
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201
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Four Generations of Outstanding Quality: Berluti in Paris
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202
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Another Wonder of Rome: Gatto
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203
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A Commitment to Quality: E. Vogel in New York
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204
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These Shoes Are Made for Walking: Oliver Moore in New York
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205
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Appendix
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Glossary
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206
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Bibliography
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211
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Acknowledgments
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211
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Index
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212
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Illustrations
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216
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