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Bespoke
Lasts
Shoe & Boot
Ugg Boots
Dictionary
Shoes
Handmade
Contents
Introduction
4
Text
10
    Taking Measurements
12
    The Draft
14
    The Length and Width of the Foot
15
    The Foot Imprint
16
    The Foot from Different Angles
17
    The Bone Structure of the Foot
18
    The Musculature of the Foot
20
    Phases of Walking
22
    The Arches
24
    Common Malformations
25
    Shoe Sizes
26
          French Sizes
26
          English Sizes
26
          American Sizes (USA)
27
          Metric Sizes
27
    Girth Measurements
27
    Width Numbering
28
    Foot ID
29
Lasts
30
    Why Do We Need Lasts?
32
    "The Cobbler Should Stick to His Lasts"
33
    The Symmetric Last and the Asymmetric Last
34
    The Raw Material of the Last
36
    Cutting It Up
38
    Heat-Treating and Dying
39
    The Lastmaker
40
    Preparing the Custom-Made Last by Hand
42
    Preshaping
43
    Rough Copying
44
    Fine Copying
44
    Final Adjustments
45
    Custom-Made Lasts
46
          The Removal Method
46
          The Addition Method
46
          Corrected Custom-made Lasts
47
    Characteristic Custom-made Lasts
48
    Putting the Last to the Test
49
    The After-life of the Last
50
Shoe Styles
52
    "Shoes Makyth Man"
54
    Footwear Fashion
56
    Basic Types of Classic Men's Shoes
58
    The Full-brogue and Semi-brogue
59
    The Oxford
60
    The Derby
62
    The Monk
66
    The Slipper
68
    Summer Shoes
70
    Boots
72
    The Design
74
    The Form
76
    Typical Forms
77
    A Choice of Colors
78
    Combining Color and Leather
80
    Golf Shoes
82
    Contrasting Colors: Black and White
84
The Upper
86
    Leather
88
    Preparation for Tanning
90
    Posttanning Procedures and Finishing
93
    Clicking
95
    Box Calf
96
    Cowhide
98
    Exotic Leathers
99
          Lizard Skin
100
          Crocodile Skin
101
    Accessories for Shoe Uppers
103
    Preparation for Assembling the Shoe Upper
104
    Gimping
105
    Brogueing
106
    Decorations on the Toe Cap
108
    Reinforcing the Upper
111
    Stitching the Upper
112
    The Lining
114
    Finishing the Upper
115
The Shoe
116
    The Shoemaker's Workshop
118
    The Shoemaker's Guild
120
    Industrialization and its Consequences
122
    Construction of the Shoe
124
    The ABCs of the Shoe
126
    The Welted Shoe
129
    The Double-Stitched Shoe
129
    Pit Tanning
130
    Wonders of Nature
131
    Leather for the Lower Parts
132
    Cutting Out the Lower Parts
133
    The Insole
134
    The Feather
135
    Preparing the Upper
136
    The Counter
137
    The Side Reinforcements
138
    The Adhesive
139
    Lasting
140
    Hammering the Shoe
141
    The Welted Shoe
143
    Cobbler's Thread
144
    The Seam
145
    Stitching the Welt
146
    Completing the Welt: the Rand
148
    Soling the Shoe
150
    The Outsole
152
    Making Stitches on the Outsole
153
    Double-stitching
154
    Completing the Welt Stitching
155
    The Double-stitched Shoe
157
    The Welt Seam
158
    Preparting for the Second Row of Stitching
159
    The Midsole Seam
160
    The Outsole Seam
160
    The Heel
162
    The Correct Measurement
163
    The Second Rand
164
    The Construction of the Heel
165
    Measuring and Shaping the Heel
166
    Rubber Heel Pieces
167
    Finishing the Sole and Heel
168
    Ornamentation
170
    Removing the Last
172
    Finishing the Inside of the Shoe
173
    Insole Covers
174
    Arch Supports
174
    The Three-part Shoe Tree
176
    The Sprung Shoe Tree
177
    Finishing the Completed Shoe
179
    Suitable Shoelaces
181
    Packing
181
Caring for Shoes
182
    Cleaning
184
    The Ten Golden Rules of Shoe Care
185
    The Art of Shoe Cleaning
186
    Types of Shoe Trees
188
    The Shoe Horn
189
    "If the Shoe Pinches..."
190
    Shoe Repairs
191
    Repairs to the Toe Piece and the Heel
192
    Replacing the Sole and Heel
193
Workshops
194
    Shoes Fit for a King: Lobbs in London and Paris
196
    London and Budapest Meet: Benjamin Klemann in Basthorst
198
    Form Follows Function: Himer & Himer in Baden-Baden
199
    A Budapest renaissance: Laszolo Vass
200
    The Name is a Brand: Balint in Vienna
201
    Style, Success, and Quality: Materna in Vienna
201
    Four Generations of Outstanding Quality: Berluti in Paris
202
    Another Wonder of Rome: Gatto
203
    A Commitment to Quality: E. Vogel in New York
204
    These Shoes Are Made for Walking: Oliver Moore in New York
205
Appendix
Glossary
206
Bibliography
211
Acknowledgments
211
Index
212
Illustrations
216


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Walrus Shoe & Leather, Co.,
Manufacturers of the finest Period and Theatrical Footwear, by Larry Waller, Delavan, WI USA
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